LOS ANGELES GUIDE
Ohhh Los Angeles. Whenever I think of this city, I’m overcome with warmth and nostalgia. Every visit was an escape for me, filled only with joyful memories and associations that kept me coming back for more.
LA captivates me with its energy. Similar to how I was drawn to New York City, LA simmers with an undercurrent of potential, bubbling underneath the streets and emanating in the golden hues of sunrises and sunsets that make the city glow so perfectly, they make you believe that anything is possible by being there. It manifests in a different way than NYC, where it’s often seen in the intensity and grit that comes off of people as they hustle at breakneck speeds, and in the big buildings and flashing lights that humble you with the reminder that you’re a small human capable of great things. No, LA captures it in the steadiness of pace, in the low hum of consistency in practice and perfection of craft that usually happens after hours, as palm trees sway outside the window. It’s in the gentle whisper of waves that tell you there’s more, so much more in the depth of people and their passions if you dig deep enough under the LA cool. It’s the invisible layer of glitter that coats your seemingly normal, day-to-day life, knowing that at any moment, the sun could hit just right and make it explode into a million fractions of light that catapult you to heights you’ve only dreamed of.
There are a lot of other known draws to LA — the weather, the food, the beaches — but I’m more attached to the memories that I’ve formed in this city. My most cherished are ones that don’t even feature destinations or major moments, but of cruising down I-10 and wondering if, 20 years later, I would ever be in LA driving down the same highway and reminiscing on that same moment, remembering how free I felt, how the sun bathed my skin in warmth and how beautiful the mountains looked as the palms and low rooftops whipped by. Of sitting on a couch, wine in hand, conversing over everything and anything and being discovered there 4 hours later in the exact same spots still deep in thought. Of catching the most beautiful sunset on the way back from the Pacific Palisades, seeing the sky fade from muted blues to fiery pinks and purples over the ocean, watching the silhouette of my friend’s eyelashes fluttering as she soaked it in herself. Of trailing behind two companions as they walked side-by-side, in the quiet and darkness of closed stores, backlit only by a giant parking garage mural in psychedelic neon colors, and framing the moment in my mind.
I’ve been lucky enough to have the blessing of time, 11+ weekend trips in 2 years, and established people to truly experience what LA has to offer and develop a connection with the city. What started as 1 friend doubled to 2, then 4 as friends and family continued to congregate in this special place and as I began to be so generously, warmly and kindly folded into communities that my people had built. There’s nothing like being welcomed back with open arms by those who essentially used to be strangers and have somehow woven you into the fabric of their life for a period of time. I’ve been able to meet so many wonderful individuals defined not by their listed occupation (as it often feels these days), but by their walks in life that have exposed me to greater things to strive for and desire. This always gave me sparks of joy to take back to the dullness of tech life in Seattle — for that I am truly thankful, and to those people I owe it all.
So here is how I would spend my ideal afternoon in each listed neighborhood, influenced by the itineraries that have been created and experienced over the years. Comprehensive, but by no means complete, and ever expanding with each visit. Till next time, LA.
EAST
Downtown LA
Downtown LA has its charm despite being the location for a high concentration of touristy destinations. These places are iconic for a reason! Grab a cup of coffee from Nossa Familia Coffee at The CalEdison DTLA, a small coffee bar featuring direct-trade, sustainably sourced beans in the gorgeous art deco lobby of the historic CalEdison building. Sip on your coffee as you wait for The Broad to open, where you can admire the modern/contemporary art installations (including the building itself) and sit under the shade of olive trees afterwards. Walk across the street to the Walt Disney Concert Hall, a beautiful and unique architectural landmark by Frank Gehry with jutting silver folds and peaks reflecting in the sun. If you’re lucky, you’re visiting during spring when the trees surrounding the concert hall are in full bloom, casting color on the monochrome stainless steel. A few blocks over is the City Hall building, another historic building with a great observation deck at the top that is pretty quiet and offers 360 views of the city with handy maps pointing out landmark buildings and neighborhoods. Check out Grand Central Market for some food, a favorite being the pupusas at Sarita’s Pupuseria of La La Land fame, before heading across the street to the Bradbury Building of 500 Days of Summer fame, a gorgeous, skylit building with intricate iron detailing, cage elevators and marble floors. Check out some books and LPs at The Last Bookstore, LA’s largest independent new/used bookstore, and find your way upstairs to the hole in the wall of books that everyone takes pictures in. Complete your loop at the InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown hotel, making your way up to the 70th floor sky lobby to take in panoramic views amid modern, sleek furniture details.
March 2022 Notes: The Los Angeles Flower District was a dream as someone who loves fresh flowers. Incredible selection with so many unique varieties, all at great prices. Would be there every few weeks to pick up flowers for my home if I lived in LA.
Arts District
Arts District is my favorite neighborhood in LA. There’s a delightful concentration of small galleries here, and it’s also home to my favorite LA coffee shop location, Maru Coffee. Maru is a minimal space where thought in design and detail is clearly evident, and the space is large enough so you can always find a seat to chill, catch up with friends or work. I’ve done all three over the course of my visits, and it never fails to feel homey and comforting. Grab some coffee before stopping into Silverlake Wine Arts District on your way to the Institute of Contemporary Art LA, then hop over to A+D Architecture and Design Museum and Hauser & Wirth, my favorite of the museums that features small, curated exhibits under muted skylights and Manuela, their local, open air farm-to-table restaurant where you can see some of the produce they grow and their chicken coop. This will put you in the prime spot to make the call for whatever’s next, depending on your day — brews at Arts District Brewing Company or Angel City Brewery, a scoop of black olive brittle & goat cheese ice cream (a flavor that literally made me exclaim out loud in awe) at Salt & Straw, more liquid fuel at Go Get Em Tiger, or a unique brat and many mustard choices from Wurstküche. I also love ROW DTLA if you’re in town on a weekend, which is where/when they host Smorgasburg LA, which allows you to try a lot of different local restaurants at once. You can hop through all the permanent shops they have there as well, my favorites being Hawkins New York and KINTO for the dreamy home goods and tableware, Poketo and HIGHTIDE for design-oriented office supplies and every day items, and Flask & Field a wine shop that happened to have a free tequila tasting when I was last there.
March 2022 Notes: GGET wasn’t in their old location, so Boxx Coffee Roasters down the street is a good alternative with lots of seating.
Chinatown
Chinatown is home of Howlin’ Rays, and that’s the reason why I ended up there. The wait was about 2 hours long, but if you’re with good company, it feels shorter than it is. Is it worth the wait once? Sure. Would I do it again? Probably not. Grab a cup of coffee at Endorffeine, a coffee shop that belongs to a former biochemist who was focused on cancer pharmaceuticals before changing paths after his experience with a life-changing cup of coffee, then line up before the doors open for the famous hot chicken sandwich. If it’s your first time there and you tell the cashier taking your order, they’ll usually throw in something extra for free (fries and sauce for me). Then take some time to peruse the local shops in the plaza, like East/West Shop for sustainable t-shirts and streetwear, and Now Serving, a corner bookshop home to many of the latest cook books and magazines for home kitchen inspiration. Then make your way to the Chinatown Central Plaza for the colorful building facades and traditional lanterns overhanging the plaza. Los Angeles State Historic Park is also right next to this plaza if you want to walk off a bit more of your chicken sandwich, learn from a local event or stay close by for a concert.
Echo Park + Silver Lake
Grab a grain bowl or salad to-go at honey hi and take it to Echo Park Lake for a blissful picnic while watching the swan boats float by on the lake. Echo Park Lake is gorgeous, framing the city just so with its palm trees and water lilies, and lazing in the sun here is an ideal way to spend the afternoon. More active people will enjoy running the loop of this park, which is an easy 1 mile around. Then head over to the Silver Lake neighborhood to admire the quaint homes wrapped in bougainvillea and charming boutiques on Silver Lake Blvd before heading to Sunset Blvd to grab coffee at insta-worthy (but with a serious coffee rep) Dayglow or minimalist Dinosaur Coffee, or a nightcap at Cliff’s Edge, with its cathedral-esque stained glass behind the bar and leafy patio for summer nights.
March 2022 Notes: Grab a mango pesto bowl at Laveta, head to Echo Park Lake, then get coffee to cool down at Stereoscope Coffee before heading to OTOTO, a sake bar with friendly, knowledgable staff, incredible selection, and the cutest cat logo/design details!
Griffith Park
Griffith Observatory can be a pain to get to by car because of traffic on the way to the observatory and limited parking, but you can bypass all of this and get a workout in by hiking the East Observatory Trail. It’s a 1.5 mile hike round trip and a relatively easy incline, though dealing with the heat on the unshaded path can make it difficult. You’ll get sweeping views of LA on your way up, and it makes the success of getting to Griffith and its air conditioning that much sweeter once you arrive. Some people think the observatory is overrated, but I had it on my list for a while and ultimately found my visit completely worth it. The structure is iconic and offers gorgeous views of the city, and I can only imagine how much more magical it is at sunset when the city begins to glimmer below. While you’re in Griffith Park, stop by the Old Los Angeles Zoo to crawl through the abandoned ruins of caves and cages and pass graffitied walls on your way to hiking paths with views.
CENTRAL
KOREATOWN
I’m rarely in Koreatown for anything besides eating and drinking, which is what 100% of these recommendations feature. The most recent place that I visited was Yuk Dae Jang, a place specializing in yukgyejang (spicy beef and vegetable soup) with kalgooksu (knife-cut noodles), which perfectly hit the spot on a slightly chilly night with its perfectly bouncy noodles and spicy, savory broth that had richness I often find lacking in other versions. I’ve had pleasant experiences at Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong for Korean BBQ, but it’s never my first choice for a wait. If you’re inevitably stuck there to see the hype for yourself, head next door to Toe Bang for some drinks and anju while waiting to curb the hunger. My preferred spot for KBBQ is all-you-can-eat at Mansoo Korean BBQ which has great meat quality for an unbeatable basic package price <$20, and the banchan is serve yourself, buffet style. The one thing I wouldn’t ever mind waiting for again is the fall-off-the-bone galbi jjim (braised beef short ribs) with cheese torched on top at Sun Nong Dan, which is still the best I’ve ever had. If the line is too overwhelming, hop over to Wako Donkasu next door, where you grind your own sesame seeds for your donkasu sauce (we love a good ~interactive~ experience), and get huge portions of flaky, crispy meat. For dessert, head to Oakobing for bingsoo (shaved ice dessert) or grab late night drinks at Dan Sung Sa, an old-school spot with tables tucked into graffiti-filled corners as makgeolli (rice wine) is poured into golden tin bowls. If you move west on Wilshire Ave., Myung Dong Kyoja is a no-frills spot and is where I first had kongguksoo (chilled soy bean noodle soup). Their dumplings are a must as well. Up Western Ave. is the H Mart Madang, a classic shopping complex home to SomiSomi, the bungeo-ppang cone soft serve spot, and Sul & Beans, popular for its similarity to Sulbing in Korea. A few streets up is Here’s Looking At You, which has an incredible brunch menu that fuses many classic Korean flavors into your typical brunch fare, and for drinks, check out LA Ddong Go which reminds me of a street pojangmacha in Korea with its plastic stools, metal tables and claw machine game for Kakao characters. Up the street is Han Bat Sul Lung Tang, a popular spot for the beef bone noodle soup and their stellar kkakdugi (radish kimchi), which is perfect after a night of drinking, and across the street for lighter fare is The Kimbap, which offers rolls with all sorts of combinations, and Cafe Bora, the instagram-able bingsoo place with unique toppings like purple sweet potato and persimmon. Finally, Mister Bossam rounds out the list for one of my favorite Korean dishes, bossam, a boiled pork dish that comes with wraps and kimchi. And if you’re just looking for a place to load up on snacks or soju, California Market is where I always end up, whether to shop or to kill some time while waiting for people to arrive. Looking for coffee? Try Alchemist Coffee Project for their fun concoctions. And I didn’t know where to put Genever, since it’s actually more Historic Filipinotown than Koreatown, but this is by far my favorite bar that I’ve been to in LA. A lot of bars tend to blend together in this city, but this one stood out because you can actually hear people when conversing, a major plus, and it has posh decor that isn’t too over the top or the typical bohemian vibe. Every drink on the menu was creative and sounded delicious, and I wasn’t disappointed by any of the ones I tried.
La Brea + Beverly Grove + Tri-West
Grab brunch at Met Her at a Bar, a fantastic and flavorful brunch spot focused on infusing global flavors in their specialty Belgian waffle dishes, before heading to LACMA to see the iconic “Urban Light” exhibit aka the lamp posts. If you’re looking for some retail therapy, you can visit The Grove and stop by Verve Coffee Roasters for some coffee on your way up to Melrose. There are so many shops on Melrose, but the ones that I made an effort to stop by were concentrated on Melrose Place and included Glossier LA, The Apartment by The Line LA, and Mansur Gavriel on the way to the Pacific Design Center and the West Hollywood Library. Grab a matcha from Cha Cha Matcha and continue down to the Leica Store and Gallery to drool over the cameras and admire some work from artists using the brand upstairs in their mini gallery. They have a patio up there as well that makes a great resting spot after all the walking you just did.
Hollywoodland
North of Hollywood is a neighborhood called Hollywoodland. At its origin, Hollywoodland was created by developers to be a gated community for people in the movie industry, and the Hollywood sign was raised to advertise the new area. Homes were instructed to be built in French Normandy, Tudor English, Mediterranean, and Spanish styles, but lack of guidelines in design made many homes end up in storybook styles, with cottages laced in ivy and castles with pointed roofs and cobblestone. It’s fascinating to see these fantasy-like houses, and the perfect way to see them is by following the trail of secret stairs that winds through Beachwood Canyon and Hollywoodland. You’ll have clear line of sight to the Hollywood sign on your way to the trail, and views of Griffith Observatory, downtown Hollywood and the Lake Hollywood Reservoir await as you trek through the path. Put on some good walking shoes, fire up your quads and enjoy gaping at the mansions and city views.
WEST
Sawtelle
A lot of people head to Little Tokyo in DTLA for Japanese food and fare, but I’ve learned to love Sawtelle for this instead. You can park in the plaza where Marshall’s is before grabbing lunch at Marugame Udon, the usual order being a regular nikutama udon layered with a soft poached egg, mound of sweet beef and stack of green onions, and a shrimp tempura or spam musubi from the self-serve stations. Head across the street to Black Market next to look at fashionable finds and local goods. Once you’ve digested a bit, cross over again to B Sweet for the Halo, an ice cream-filled donut that is pressed to caramelize the outside. If you’re daring enough to move while eating this mess of a dessert, walk over to Hashimoto Nursery, one of the oldest family-owned nurseries in the area that has survived 80 years and 3 generations, to peruse the plants. Settle down with a matcha at ChitChat or grab boba at one of the many boba spots nearby, like Noble Tea. A little off the main road is Mogumogu, a delicious dry ramen spot with filling portions, if you’re interested in dinner.
March 2022 Notes: Killer Noodle is another great food spot from the Tsujita family, allowing customizable dry vs. wet, mala vs. spicy noodles. Cool down your tongue with a creme brulee crepe from Millet Crepe.
Westwood
Known for being UCLA’s stomping grounds, Westwood is a classic college town in a lot of ways with UCLA’s sprawling campus and main streets for dining and shopping. UCLA’s campus is nice to walk around and certainly a way to get steps in while imagining what life would’ve been like to be a student in LA while munching on the famed Diddy Riese chocolate chip cookies (which definitely would’ve been the source of freshmen 15). The biggest draw to this neighborhood to me is the Hammer Museum. It’s a quiet oasis, featuring an outdoor courtyard at its core with Thomas Heatherwick’s famous Magis Spun Chairs all over, secluded by bamboo trees as tall as the building, and ping pong tables artfully placed upstairs in a large hallway between exhibits with floor to ceiling glass windows to let in light. The collections were great, even including some famous Monet and van Gogh, and the museum gift shop made a point to feature local artists and authors with a corner dedicated to Asian-American writers, which I loved.
Santa Monica + Venice
The parking structures at Santa Monica are free for the first 90 minutes, so that usually helps with spending time here. Go to the Santa Monica Pier to revel at the ferris wheel and amusement park rides lining the dock and run through the sand and waves close by. Then rent a bike or an electric scooter and make your way down to Venice and fuel up at The Rose Venice. From there you can walk the Venice Beach Boardwalk and see street artists at work, skateboarders flipping around the skate park, basketball players in a tournament on the courts or body builders at Muscle Beach. Find your way to Abbot Kinney Blvd for casual, chic shops featuring fashion, art and food, before heading to the Venice Canals for SoCal’s take on incorporating European vibes.
The Getty + The Getty Villa
These two locations aren’t side-by-side, unlike what one might assume based on the name connection, but they’re both on the west side. The Getty is north of Westwood and The Getty Villa is along the coast above the Pacific Palisades. The Getty remains one of my favorite art museum on earth for its vast selection of exhibits and its modern, minimal aesthetic with sun bleached walls and gridlines galore. It’s a beautiful, calming space with a large garden and city views too. I honestly can’t believe this museum is free for the amount of content it has and the immaculate state the museum is in. The Getty Villa is an offshoot that also has beautifully curated grounds in a replica of an ancient Roman country house, culminating in the long pool in the courtyard. Go upstairs to the balcony for the perfect view of the pool and the ocean just beyond, where you can watch the sun set and see the courtyard cast in long shadows from golden hour.
Culver City
In Culver West, go to Alibi Room for Roy Choi’s famous Kogi food truck tacos without being forced to stand to eat before heading to Ginger’s Divine Ice Creams to try all the unique flavors and settle on a scoop (my preferred: campfire marshmallow) to enjoy outside in their wire basket chairs. For fancier fare, try Uzumaki Sushi, where I appreciate their commitment to high quality at an affordable price, and the pillow of warm rice that the fish is laid upon. If you need caffeine, The Boy & The Bear is a cozy spot that leans into the cement, leather and plant aesthetic. If you’re closer to downtown Culver City, try the Indonesian food at Simpang Asia (the spicy dishes are actually painfully spicy) before heading to PLATFORM for drinks at the boho chic rooftop bar margot while watching the Metro pass by with its futuristic-looking glow at night. A little off the path near Culver is the original Leo’s Tacos Truck spot on S La Brea Ave x Venice Blvd, where you will eat the best tacos of your life. I still dream about those tacos, al pastor sliced straight off the spit onto a warm tortilla and garnished with a chunk of pineapple. Perfection.
South
Torrance
Drive to the coastal cliffs of Palos Verdes Estates Shoreline Preserve and meander down the trail as you take in the vast expanse of the ocean and jutting bluff dotted with mansions before stopping by the Terranea Resort to wander the grounds wondering when you’ll make it in life to come back for a vacation and admire the teal blue hues of the water. Then stop by Wayfarers Chapel, the airy stone and glass chapel set within a grove of redwoods. Hopefully you are not deterred by a wedding and are actually able to go inside to get the full experience.
Anaheim
I was in Anaheim a few times for work at the NAMM convention, which alone was usually enough in sensory overload. But Anaheim also had some nice gems close enough to explore beyond the main attraction: Disneyland. Head to the Anaheim Packing District for a view of local fare, including Sweetbird, which makes a mean spicy chicken sandwich, and Popbar, for a popsicle to cool down with, before walking to the Center Street Promenade, a street filled with little shops and restaurants. The hotel I usually stayed at was also always close to Joe’s Italian Ice, which I never actually ate at, but would walk to for some air and to appreciate the retro vibes that felt transporting after a long day. It seemed to be a local favorite.
Laguna Beach
Laguna Beach is an idealistic, quaint beach town that has charming small town vibes to it. Grab an acai bowl from Banzai Bowls before heading down to the beach, starting at Oak Street Beach and making your way up to the Main Beach Park. From there you can pop into the art galleries and boutiques that line Forest Ave, my favorite being the National Geographic Fine Art Gallery where they have some incredible photo prints on view. Then grab an iced coffee from Laguna Coffee Company and enjoy the sun and sea breeze.
NORTH
Pasadena
The main reason for being in Pasadena was for The Huntington Library, Art Museum & Botanical Gardens, but we got some food first to fuel up beforehand. Mama Lu’s Dumpling House was the spot of choice and we enjoyed some delicious dim sum to start the day right and carbo load before taking on the estate. While the Huntington Library is also home to a research library, art museum, research center, and educational center, we spent all of our time exploring the botanical gardens. There are so many plants and different types of terrain, ranging from rose gardens to tropical trees to desert cacti to the Japanese garden. There’s a lot of ground to cover, so wear comfortable shoes, and the variety of things to see in one place is incredible. One of my favorite activities while walking through the gardens was trying to spot who was covertly having a photoshoot since The Huntington Library doesn’t allow commercial photography.
March 2022 Notes: Yang’s Kitchen is a great brunch spot, sourcing local ingredients which is noticeable in how fresh everything tasted. Visited Kumquat Coffee to pick up some beans from roasters that are harder to get (read: Fritz Coffee) and enjoyed walking down York Blvd, which is lined with small boutiques and shops.
Malibu
Malibu is way northwest of the city, and I was only ever there for 2 very specific occasions: a wedding and a birthday, for which we went on one of the Malibu Wine Safaris. This might be the most basic thing I’ve ever done beyond ordering avocado toast for brunch, but it far exceeded expectation. The tour guides are hilarious, the views are fantastic, the wine is actually tasty and you get to see and feed a wide variety of animals. I would recommend it, and as my coworker reviewed it a few days before my trip, “it was the time of my life.” High praise.
